I decided that before embellishing the base with the base panel and panel molding, I should complete the main structure of the the waist. So, now on to the waist..
First up is the construction of the waist door frame, the stiles of the door frame receive fairly substantial mortises, in fact these are through mortises.
The curve on the upper rail has been roughly band sawn wide of the line and the tendons cut..
Next we attach a full size pattern that we made and pattern route the curve with a spiral double ball bearing bit. This process cleans up the curve.
After massaging the fit of the mortise and tendons, we glue up the door frame.. After the frame is dry, we add the column top and bottom blocks (not pictured) to the door frame,
After much deliberation, I decided it would be a good point to mill and glue up the back bone of the clock. I would love to use American Chestnut as John Townsend did, but American Chestnut is close to being extinct from a blight in the early 20th century. So Yellow Poplar it is, the back bone is quite a large slab of Poplar 82 3/4" long, 12 1/8" at the narrow part, 15" at the widest.
Finally with a few clamps, the waist sides are glued up with the door frame..
After hand planing the corner blocks flush and waist sides, the waist was successfully married to the base. The area between the corner blocks on each side of the door frame, will receive the fluted quarter columns.
Next we need to make the waist crown molding, the waist crown molding supports the entire hood. Below we see the waist crown molding profile laid out on the stock, the stock has been milled to the proper 'spring angle', the proper gauge lines have been extended to the profile and the depth of the rabbets gauged on the ends..
Here is the stock with the rabbets all cut.. Next step, hollows, rounds and a right side round plane..
Completed moldings, next they need to be mitered and installed..